One of the most exciting things about embracing design is the opportunity to experiment with new developments. As someone who nerds out on fabric, wash techniques, trim — you know name it, it’s been fun being in the driver’s seat. I’ve learned so much about good design and from my experience, it has less to do with adding details and more with simplifying.

 

When I first started designing, my approach was to combine elements from my favorite designers to create a “super garment”, complete with every detail you could imagine. However, as I fell more in love with design, I realized my emphasis on cohesiveness and a strong idea was best achieved through a reductionist and minimalist approach. I’ve been leaning into this way of design a lot for Season 5. This next collection is my introduction to basics.

 

Making basics sounds easy. On the surface, it’s designing timeless essentials that you can reach for over and over again in your closet. In practice though, there’s a lot to learn. Garment dyeing is especially complicated.

 

I’ve been spending my time at the dye house learning about dye formulas, shrinkage, and how the perfect formula of both components lends itself to a well made garment. Season 5 will feature basics in Black and White — designed with comfort and a vintage hand feel in mind. 

 

Here’s what I’ve learned so far about garment dyeing.  It’s been a humbling experience because I’ve made so many mistakes. But all of these mistakes have allowed me to learn and fall deeper in love with process.

 

1. Using a fabric marker (very important), outline a 20 x 20” square of your fabric for shrink tests. Make sure there is seam allowance around the square and that you cut along the selvage of the fabric. Know that all knitted fabrics shrink — unless specified otherwise by the fabric mill.
2. Go a dye house to have the fabric laundered for shrink test. This means the vendor will dye the fabric any color for you to then measure shrinkage.
3. Assuming you already have a pattern drafted, go back to your pattern maker and have them adjust the pattern based on the shrink results. Every 1/8” represents 1% in shrink.
4. Return to the dye house and specify what color and techniques (eg: enzyme, silicone, softener, potassium spray) you’d like applied to your production run. Sample test the garment dye to make sure you love the way the garment reacts to the wash.